I will do the small water changes (through gravel vacuuming) every second day, and of course replace with the salted water. I wanted to keep the salt in for as long as I can to get rid of the ich for good, of course! I took out a bucket of water yesterday doing the gravel vac, and salted and dechlorinated the water I put back in. Yah, dont want to hear about it!!!(blush) just joking! I wish I had one, but I will one day.Īnyways I don't really think I'm going to go with the lights out thing, but if I have to I will. Just noticed it has been four or five days. So if I were you, I would try the salt a little longer before resorting to the meds. It is highly carcinogenic and can kill your bacteria in the water. You can't use it around pregnant woman due to birth defects and can't touch it with your skin. The carbon doesn't affect salt and also the salt is safer to use because it wont effect your cycle. Also, I was reading about this fish vets experiments with salt in the water for different issues and he does not recommend long term use of salt but said he has never ran into a fish (he included corys, loaches and tetras specifically) that could not tolerate salt at least on short term basis (excluding fry). But I know quite a few people who keep their corys in maintenance amount of salt and their fine. Though I think the real problem is longevity of it being in the water. Some people say salt is really bad for corys and loaches. This way you can vacuum the gravel like you already mentioned and get some of the free swimmers out of the water (assuming there are any) and that should help a lot. I would keep them smaller and do more a week (just my opinion). But one of my females is gravid which is extremely rare in captivity.Īre you being sure you put the salt back in after the water change? I took mine out too early and the ick came back.ĭo lots of water changes. As far as the meds go, they are just as hard on the fish as salt would be. I left it in there extra long just to be sure. My golden zebras are in with salt right now also from a case of ick a while back. I have treated tanks with salt with corys and loaches. I have no clue as far as the real plants go so hopefully someone else will chime in there. And also the possibility that the ick can't find the fish, although this is not proven. The lights off theory goes two ways, that it gives the fish lots of rest which equals less stress which equals less ick. I am going to take it out now though, but do you think the salt wouldn't work because of that? And I forgot to take out the carbon filter, but its old, I rinse it and put it back in. Or should I just keep trying with the salt? I have added probably 8 or 9 tbsp of aquarium salt. I have a small bottle of nox-ich, with Malachite green in it so should I try that instead? I says one drop per gallon, so that would be 33 drops, but if I have to do half the treatment, would I only do 17 drops? Do I have to take the salt out though first through water changes? I turned the heater up a little bit more today too, I was at 79-80. What else should I do? I was reading on here about scaleless fish and salt and how they will not tolerate it. I did a water test yesterday and things seemed pretty good. I thought they would have died though as soon as they were out of the fish because of the salt in the water. I did I gravel vacuum yesterday, to try to get any thermonts out. He seems ok for now, even with the higher temperature. I would die if my weather (dojo) loach got it. What should I do? And I have seen many of the fish itching, especially the golden zebra loaches. I looked at my two golden zebra loaches today, and they both have spots all over them! I've been treating it with heat and salt for about 4-5 days now, and the spots were gone, and I didnt see any new spots on the other fish. So now of course the whole tank is infected. I posted earlier about picking up some new fish, and one of them had ich.
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